Start with British flour and a light hand

Scones are one of the kindest things you can bake, and they repay a gentle touch. They belong to the quick bread family, so they rely on British-grown soft wheat rather than strong bread flour. For light fruit scones, choose plain flour with a protein content of around 9–10%. Strong flour will fight you, producing a chewy, tight crumb instead of the soft, short bite you want beside a cup of tea. A little stoneground wholemeal or light brown flour can add a nutty, wheaty note, but replace no more than a quarter of the white flour, and add an extra splash of buttermilk because whole grains drink more liquid. If you can find a heritage British wheat, it will bring a lovely flavour, but sieve it well and treat it as you would any soft flour. Weigh your flour rather than scooping it, because a heavy cupful makes dry, dusty scones.

Ingredients for a reliable batch

This makes about ten to twelve scones with a 6cm cutter, enough for a proper afternoon tea.

• 350g British plain flour
• 3 tsp baking powder
• ½ tsp fine sea salt
• 50g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
• 40g caster sugar
• 100g sultanas
• 1 tbsp finely grated lemon zest, optional
• 180–200ml buttermilk, plus extra for brushing

If you do not have buttermilk, stir one tablespoon of lemon juice into 200ml of whole milk and leave it for ten minutes until it looks slightly thickened. Buttermilk gives tenderness and a gentle tang, and its acidity helps the baking powder lift the scones. Sultanas are traditional, but currants or a mixture of raisins and chopped candied peel work well. If your sultanas are very dry, soak them in warm tea for ten minutes, then drain and pat them dry before folding them in. Wet fruit will streak the dough and weigh it down.

Mix, pat and cut without twisting

Heat the oven to 220°C, 200°C fan, or gas mark 7, and line a baking tray with parchment. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Add the cold butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs. Stir through the sultanas and lemon zest, if using. Make a well in the centre and pour in most of the buttermilk. Bring the dough together with a table knife, adding the rest of the buttermilk only if needed. The dough should be soft but not sticky. Turn it onto a lightly floured surface and pat it into a round about 3cm thick. Do not knead it. Dip a 6cm cutter in flour, press straight down, and lift it without twisting. Twisting seals the edges and stops the scones rising evenly. Place them on the tray, close together for soft-sided scones or slightly apart for crisper edges. Re-roll the scraps once, gently, and cut the last few. Brush the tops with buttermilk.

Why buttermilk and British grains matter

British soft wheat is lower in protein than the strong flour used for bread, which is exactly what you want here. It gives a short, tender crumb rather than a bready chew. Buttermilk adds richness and a subtle tang, and its acidity works with the baking powder for a good rise. If you use a stoneground or wholemeal British flour, expect it to absorb more liquid, so keep a little buttermilk back and add it gradually. A flour with visible bran can also weigh the dough down, so sifting out the coarse bran and stirring it back in afterwards gives a lighter result. This is home baking at its best: simple British grains, dairy and dried fruit, handled with care.

Bake, cool and serve for afternoon tea

Bake for 12–15 minutes, until the scones have risen well and are golden on top. Do not open the oven during the first ten minutes, or the rush of cold air can make them sink. Cool them on a wire rack for five minutes, then serve them warm. For afternoon tea, split a scone rather than cutting it clean through with a sawing motion; a fork or a gentle knife does the job. Spread with good butter first, then jam. Clotted cream is a wonderful addition if you are making a cream tea, but butter and jam alone are perfectly traditional. The warmth of the scone makes the butter melt and the jam bloom.

Make ahead and fix common faults

Baked scones freeze well for up to a month. Reheat them in a low oven at 160°C, 140°C fan, or gas mark 3 for eight to ten minutes. You can also freeze the cut, unbaked scones on a tray, then bake them from frozen, adding three or four minutes to the baking time. If your scones spread rather than rise, the dough was overworked or the cutter was twisted. If they are dry, you added too much flour or baked them too long. If they are tough, they were kneaded instead of patted. Check that your baking powder is in date, too, because old baking powder loses its power. With a light hand and British flour, you will have a basket of warm fruit scones that disappear before the teapot is empty.